Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva: a 7–10 day Uzbekistan itinerary

Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are the three cities people fly to Uzbekistan for. They fit neatly into one trip of a week to ten days: fast trains connect them, and the historic centres are best explored on foot.

How many days you need

Seven to ten days including Tashkent is ideal. Under a week becomes a sprint; with ten days you have time for slow evenings in the old quarters and a trip out of town.

• Tashkent — 1 day: the metro, Chorsu bazaar, plov at the plov centre
• Samarkand — 2–3 days: Registan, Shah-i-Zinda, Gur-e-Amir, Ulugbek’s observatory
• Bukhara — 2–3 days: Po-i-Kalyan, the Ark fortress, Lyab-i-Hauz, the trading domes
• Khiva — 1–2 days: Itchan Kala, a whole town inside its walls

Getting between the cities

Afrosiyob high-speed trains link Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara: about two hours from Tashkent to Samarkand and roughly four to Bukhara. For Khiva, take a train or flight to Urgench and then a 30-minute drive. Popular trains sell out in spring and autumn, so book them right after your flights.

Samarkand: where to start

See the Registan twice — early in the morning when it is quiet, and in the evening when it is lit up. Shah-i-Zinda is the most beautiful street of tilework in the country; arrive at opening time for the soft light.

Bukhara: a city for walking

Almost everything worth seeing in Bukhara is a short walk from the Lyab-i-Hauz pond. In the evening locals gather here — the best time to feel the city rather than just look at it.

Khiva: an open-air museum

Itchan Kala is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Climb the wall or the Islam Khodja minaret at sunset and watch the town fade into the Kyzylkum desert.

Don’t try to see everything. One slow evening in a Bukhara teahouse stays with you longer than a tenth mausoleum in a day.

Travel without the hassle

On a group tour the train tickets, old-town hotels and local guides are already arranged. If you prefer your own pace, the same route runs as a private tour on any dates.